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Most of the vegetable tarts that I post on Recipes for Health call for a yeasted olive oil crust that I love to work with. With French quiches, however, I prefer a crust that resembles classic French pastry. However, I always use at least half whole-wheat flour – which is not so French – not only for its nutritional superiority, but also because it gives the resulting shell a nuttier, richer flavor that is particularly welcome in a savory tart. This dough, adapted from Jacquy Pfeiffer’s recipe for pâte brisée in “The Art of French Pastry,” involves more butter than you’re used to seeing in my recipes, but an occasional butter-based crust, especially when it’s made with whole-wheat flour and contains a filling that is all about vegetables, is not going to kill us. Instead, it’s a vehicle for the foods that we want to move toward the center of our plates.