cooking.nytimes.com
In 2002, Florence Fabricant spoke with Mark Militello, the chef and owner of the now-closed Mark’s Las Olas in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., who brought this recipe to The Times. The chef uses Uncle Ben’s converted rice here on the advice of his cooks Pascal Dieumeme and Orenus Olean. It’s parboiled, and less sticky, to yield firm, separate grains, a nice counter to the earthy pigeon peas. You can start the peas from from scratch, but it’s also fine to use canned or frozen. The whole dish is finished with scallions, bell pepper, thyme and more coconut milk. As tempting as it may be, don’t rush the rice to the table: Let it rest off the heat. It’ll help its texture and flavor.