It's summer, and no matter what you choose to drink, your plate should be bright with ripe beefsteak tomatoes and basil. If those treasures of the season complement a piece of fish, so much the better. Consider a kakavia, something Greek fishermen may assemble right on their boats, adding ingredients in fairly quick order as they cook in a round-bottomed pot also called a kakavia. It's a dish that welcomes wines that are clean-cut but with lip-smacking acidity balanced by sunny suggestions of melon and tropical fruit, like Austrian rieslings.
02Stir in wine and 2 1/2 cups water, bring to a simmer, add potatoes and cook another 6 minutes or so, until potatoes are tender. Check seasonings, adding salt and pepper to taste. Add lemon juice.
03Season fish pieces with salt and pepper, place them in the stew and simmer on low, covered, until fish is just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, warm 6 generous soup plates.
04When fish is done, remove it to the warm soup plates. Remove pot from heat, stir in basil, just to wilt it, and divide soup among the 6 plates. Serve spiced mayonnaise alongside if desired.