Fans of soft-shell crab look forward to the season — late spring and early summer — with feverish anticipation. The entire delicious crab is edible and may be prepared in many ways; deep-fried, grilled or pan-cooked. Here they are sautéed in a spicy curry butter, which complements the crabs’ rich flavor. (The recipe makes more butter than is needed for this dish, but is wonderful to have on hand. Use extra for cooking vegetables or eggs.) Serve 1 large or 2 small soft-shell crabs per person.
02Put butter in a bowl. Add spices, garlic, ginger, salt and lime zest and juice. Mash seasonings into butter with a wooden spoon. Add crushed almonds and scallions, then mix until well incorporated. (May be prepared several hours ahead, or up to 1 day in advance.)
03Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons curry butter, let melt and swirl pan to distribute. Dust crabs lightly with rice flour, if using. When butter is foamy, add crabs in one layer and raise heat. Let crabs cook 3 minutes, then turn, using tongs, and cook 3 minutes on the other side. (Be careful, as crabs may spatter.) Remove crabs and keep warm.
04Add 4 tablespoons curry butter to pan and let sizzle. Add pea shoots and cook briefly until wilted, 1 minute or less.
05Arrange crabs on a warm platter or individual plates. Garnish with wilted pea shoots and lime wedges. Spoon melted curry butter from pan over crabs and serve at once.