This is a basic New England clam chowder, though with leeks used in place of the traditional onions, and a splash of wine to add a floral note. Also: thyme. Very continental! It is shockingly delicious and deserves its title as best. Bacon will add a smoky note to the stew. If you use it, it may be worth it to go the whole distance and get expensive double-smoked bacon instead of the standard supermarket fare. The salt pork, which is not smoked, will take the meal in the opposite direction, emphasizing the pure flavor of the clams.
03Add the leeks to the fat, and cook, stirring frequently, until they are soft
but not brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in potatoes and wine, and continue cooking until wine has evaporated and the potatoes have just started to soften, approximately 5 minutes. Add enough clam broth to just cover the potatoes, approximately 3 cups, reserving the rest for another
use. Add the thyme and the bay leaf.
04Partly cover the pot, and simmer gently until potatoes are tender,
approximately 10 to 15 minutes.
05Meanwhile, chop the clams into bits about the size of the bacon dice.
06When potatoes are tender, add cream and stir in chopped clams and reserved bacon. Add black pepper to taste. Let come to a simmer, and remove from heat. (Do not let chowder come to a full boil.) Fish out the thyme and the bay leaf, and discard.
07The chowder should be allowed to sit for a while to cure. Reheat it to a
bare simmer before serving, then garnish with chopped parsley. Serve
with oyster crackers.