Buffalo meat can be very red, even when cooked to medium-rare. Don't be alarmed — this is a naturally occurring phenomenon that has to do with the animal's diet and how little fat is marbled through the muscle. While testing this recipe, we learned that buffalo meat varies in quality; the purveyors whose meat we like best are Wild Idea Buffalo Company (866-658-6137; wildideabuffalo.com), Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat Company (800-543-6328; jhbuffalomeat.com), Arrowhead Buffalo Meats (877-283-2969; arrowheadsteaks.com), and D'Artagnan (800-327-8246; dartagnan.com).
Before you begin roasting your buffalo, roughly calculate the total roasting time: Plan on about 16 minutes per pound once the oven temperature is reduced to 350°F (20 minutes per pound for beef), but start checking the temperature of either type of roast about 30 minutes before you think it will be done.
Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 5 1/4 hr (4 3/4 hr for beef)
04If using buffalo, straddle roasting pan across 2 burners, then add red wine and Madeira and deglaze pan by boiling over moderately high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, 2 minutes. Add broth and boil until reduced to about 1 1/2 cups, about 3 minutes. (If using beef, pour pan juices into a 1-quart fat-separator pitcher or glass measure and skim off fat, then pour juices back into pan. Straddle roasting pan across 2 burners and deglaze pan by boiling juices over moderately high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, until reduced to about 2/3 cup, about 8 minutes. Add red wine and Madeira and boil until reduced to about 2/3 cup, 3 to 4 minutes. Add broth and boil until reduced to about 2 cups, about 6 minutes.)
05Stir in any buffalo or beef juices accumulated on platter and season jus with salt, if necessary. Pour jus through a fine-mesh sieve into a gravy boat and keep warm, covered.