In 2011, Jeff Gordinier wrote about Gradisca, in the West Village, where the owner Massimo Galeano wanted to serve the dishes of his Bolognese childhood. So he brought in his mother, Caterina Schenardi. This recipe is adapted from her and Daniele Boldrini, who grew up in Bologna. Ms. Schenardi is especially particular about the flour and egg in her tagliatelle, but here you can just use a store-bought version to go alongside, or use a noodle of your preference.
03Add the meat and cook, stirring frequently, until all the liquid released by the meat has evaporated and the meat is browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the reserved wine and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is dry, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes, breaking them up with a spoon. Add 1 cup water, reduce heat to very low, and cook, partly covered, at a low simmer for 1 hour.
04Add vegetable stock and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to break apart, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours. Remove from heat and, using a whisk or spoon, break the meat into very fine shreds. Serve, if desired, over tagliatelle or other pasta.