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Authentic kebabs are delicious, full of nuts, spices, herbs and fruit, as anyone who's tasted proper Middle Eastern cooking knows. In this recipe I'm using a spice called sumac - it has a lovely flavor - but if you can't find it, try lemon zest instead. Buy really good ground lamb, or else a cut of trimmed shoulder or neck fillet and grind it up at home in a food processor. If you buy slightly older lamb (mutton), it's important to ask your butcher to remove the sinews, and that you cook the meat for a few minutes longer. This dish is best cooked on a barbecue over hot coals, but if that's not possible, put your broiler on to its highest setting or heat up a griddle pan. Either way, get your cooking source preheated.