cooking.nytimes.com
If ketchup put on $300 Japanese cult-brand jeans, this is what it would taste like: global, hip, sexy. This formula — infinitely adaptable, good with cheese, with fish, with spring rolls, as a chutney, as a sambal — began with the New Zealand chef Peter Gordon and was adapted by Darina Allen, the Irish cooking teacher. It appears in her book “Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” the first book anyone interested in craft cooking should read.